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Island Procida
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The most suggestive moment of the Settimana
Santa, both for the islanders and
for the numerous tourists that hasten there
every year, is surely Good Friday.
In fact, when the sun rises on the Friday
before Easter the famous procession
of the Mysteries organized by the
brotherhood of the "Turchini's"
founded in 1629 by the Jesuit fathers begins.
This is a procession that totally involves
the whole island, both in its preparation
and in its carrying out.
In reality, for all Procidans the procession
immediately begins in the months preceding
Ash Wednesday. Young people and older people
get organized in groups to plan the Mysteries,
which are plastic structures carried by
people which represent scenes of the life
and death of Jesus.
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Every group
works in one of the many island front doors
that become the true points of social aggregation
in the Procidan winter. Everything is submitted
to imagination and creativeness.
On the day of the procession all participants
(around three thousand!) wear a white habit
surmounted by a "mozzetta", or
mantle, of blue colour - These are generally
jealously guarded by every Procidan family.
The procession begins in the little square
in front of the abbey of St. Michele Arcangelo
from where the oldest brotherhood of the
Turchinis proceeds to the so-called "Chiamata"
(Call) of the Mysteries.
The procession opens with the consuming
sound of a trumpet and the answer by 3 hits
of a drum in memory of the sound that accompanied
the death row inmates in ancient Rome: this
is the call it is possible to hear everywhere
on the island in the night between Thursday
and Friday and that will accompany the religious
procession for all of its duration together
with the notes of the band's funeral march.
Immediately afterwards come the flag with
the writing SPQR, the chains (a symbol of
the capture of Christ), the various Mysteries,
some realized year by year and others fixed,
guarded near the abbey.
The procession is closed by the ancient
statue of Our Lady of Sorrows followed by
little angels, newborn children wearing
very beautiful, particular black costumes
with gold embroidery, and by the statue
of the dead Christ preceded by the pallium:
a funeral canopy supported by the representatives
of the Procidan Military Marines.
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The famous wooden statue of the dead Christ,
a work of the Neapolitan sculptor Carmine
Lantriceni (1728), is guarded near the Church
of Saint Tommaso where the Brotherhood of
the Turchini's have their headquarters.
On Friday morning, a procession of believers
that recite the Misteries is conducted to
the abbey of St. Michele from where the
procession has its beginning.
After having followed the historical path,
the procession of the Mysteries finishes
at the port of Marina Grande while the statues
of the dead Christ and Our Lady of Sorrows
are brought back to the abbey of St. Michele
Arcangelo, where in the early afternoon,
the famous religious function of agony is
celebrated.
In the evening there is an even more suggestive
moment with the torchlight procession that
accompanies the statue of Our Lady of Sorrows
and that of the dead Christ to "their"
church of St. Tommaso.
Good Friday, therefore, is not only a procession:
it is the choral movement of a people that
has its roots in an ancient past.
In fact, wherever you are in the world,
all seamen will tell you that on the day
of Good Friday they are taken by a sudden
yearning melancholy and, in the din of the
motors of their ship, they hear the distant
sounds of the trumpet of the Procession.
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